This is the drivers side support.
Friday, November 28, 2008
This is the drivers side support.
Before beginning I highly recommend buying a good set of drill bits. I started this project using an old set I've had for years, mostly used for wood and plastic. Those bits quickly turned into dull metal sticks. I bought a nice set of cobalt bits and life is good again.
I am making the rack out of 2", 1.5" angle iron and 1" wide flat steel which I purchased from my local building supplier. The plan is to cut the 1.5" angle iron to 7" long, drill bolt holes and bolt to the front two tow hooks. The flat steel piece will be used as a vertical support. The 2" angle iron provides an anchor for the flat steel. The picture below is on the driver's side.
Once the two side supports are in place I cut 1.5" angle iron to span the width, approximately 35 inches. I drilled holes and used 5/16" bolts with nylok nuts. These are spaced to the width of the batteries. Since I have not chosen a battery yet I only drilled and bolted the most forward angle iron. I'll wait to drill the holes for the other angle iron.
Much more room without the engine.
Various other pictures. You can see how quickly my garage gets junky.
Thursday, November 27, 2008
Here is the clutch flyweel. You can't see it but there is a coupler bolted onto the motor shaft and split tapered collar with a keyway. The coupler has six threaded holes for the flywheel bolts. These are the same bolts that came with the original clutch but I bought a new flywheel from the local autoparts store. My original was trashed. Noticed the teeth ring for the starter is missing from the flywheel. It was pressed on so I just used a hammer and nail punch. Popped right off. It is this stage where the spacing between the bell housing plate you see here and the front face of the flywheel is critical, called the magic number. You have to leave the bolts on the coupler lose, slide the flywheel assembly until the critical distance is achieved....0.774 +/- 0.010 inches for 1994 Honda Civic. If you were converting a different car you would need to measure that distance before removing the flywheel from the engine.
After I torqued and loctite (red) the six flywheel bolts I attached the pressure plate and wear plate to the transmission. You can see the alignment tool sticking out. Be sure to save all your original clutch bolts because the local auto parts store does not carry them. They are metric, fine thread with twelve point heads. Can only find at your Honda dealer. Luckily I still had mine.
Thursday, November 6, 2008
As you can see from the picture below the idea is to mate up the electric motor to the original transmission.
When I bought the car the transmission had been removed and I lost the mounting bolts. I recommend trying your best to keep these bolts. With the adapter plate some become through bolts that require washers and nuts but others thread into the transmission. The problem is these are automotive grade (10.9 hardened) metric fine thread bolts with varying lengths. Not something you will find at home depot or general hardware stores. I made a drawing and measured depths of the holes as best as I could then went to a fastener company called Fastenal. They only had metric hardened bolts with regular thread, which was good enough for the through bolts. The others I ordered online from Tacoma Screw.
Hopefully these will work and I can start to attach the motor and transmission. I also borrowed a hydraulic engine hoist from a coworker. Next up mating the motor and transmission.
Saturday, October 11, 2008
- Electric motor
- Motor controller
- Adapter plate
- Battery charger
Before I continue I will say up front I am going with DC power. There are advantages to AC; regenerative breaking, higher efficiency, but the complexity and cost go up as well. Plus I live in South Florida, no hills so regen will not give much back. Maybe my next conversion. :)
These items require some planning up front because the selections you make drive the design of your conversion. From my reading most people said the longest part of converting a car to electric is waiting for your parts. So far I must agree. Once the glider was here I started researching motors and it really came down to two; Advanced DC 203-06-4001 and the Netgain Warp9. Either one would have worked fine but the members of the evdl talked very highly of the Warp9 motor. So that was my choice. I went through a local ev converter up in Ft. Pierce, Grassroots EV, www.grassrootsev.com owned by Steve Clunn. Ordering parts locally keeps the money in the community and Steve can provide help, and I'm going to need help!
8 weeks later and ta-da! Here's the UPS freight delivery truck.
And there it is.
Close up view. Notice the masking tape with the words 'Clock Wise'. Honda motors rotate cw instead of ccw as most other cars. I had Netgain advanced the time to make it rotate opposite.
Friday, October 10, 2008
So I pulled the trigger. Since the gas motor was useless I got $300 off the price, it was a running car. I paid $598 dollars, minus $2 in change I found under the seats. Here they bring her out. I also want to say thanks to my friend Alex and to his family who owns MOP Auto Parts in Miami. Super nice family! I can't tell you how invaluable it will be to have a salvage yard at my disposal for spare parts. There's Alex checking out the car.
Remember I had them pull the engine out for me? Here's a shot under the hood. What's missing? There's no transmission!
We found it. It was in the trunk along with the axles, two extra jacks and a bottle of orange juice.
Here's one of the MOP guys removing the steering column to remove the steering locking mechanism. The key got lost. No sense waiting around, we wanted to bring it home. I had a key made the following week. Here she is sitting in my driveway. I'm waiting for the HOA to send a letter stating no junk cars in your driveway. Little do they know...muhahahhahahaaa (insert evil laugh). Notice on the window the Spanish words 'No Tocar'. For now that is her name, means 'hands off' or 'do not take'. It will do for now.